Fitting and removing circlips safely
Most circlip failures are fitting failures. A ring that was over-expanded on the way in will not hold, however right the part number was.
Eye protection first
A circlip under tension that slips off the pliers leaves at speed and at eye height. Wear eye protection, keep your face out of the plane of the ring, and cup a hand or a rag loosely over the assembly while the ring is expanded. This is the single most common workshop injury associated with the part.
External and internal pliers work in opposite directions
External circlips have to be expanded to pass over a shaft, so external pliers push the ring's lug holes apart. Internal circlips have to be compressed to pass into a bore, so internal pliers draw the lug holes together. Convertible pliers switch between the two; fixed sets do not.
Using the wrong set is not merely awkward — it loads the ring the wrong way and will distort it. If the ring is not opening in the direction you expect, stop and check which type you are holding rather than applying more force.
Open it as little as you can
A retaining ring is a spring, and springs have an elastic limit. Expand a ring only far enough to clear the shaft or bore, and no further. Over-expansion takes it past the point where it returns to its free diameter, and a ring that no longer closes fully will not sit down in the groove.
The same applies to plier tip size. Tips that are too small for the lug holes concentrate load on a small area and splay the lugs; tips that are too large will not enter. Match the plier to the ring range.
Confirm the ring is seated
Once released, the ring should sit fully down in the groove around its whole circumference, with a uniform amount standing proud. Run a fingernail or a scriber around it: any point where the ring lifts away from the groove floor means it is not seated, and the shoulder it forms is not the shoulder the design assumed.
Try to rotate the ring gently in the groove. It should move with light resistance. A ring that spins freely is undersized or the groove is worn; a ring that will not move at all may be pinched or distorted.
Orientation
Stamped rings are not symmetrical across their thickness. The blanking process leaves a slightly rounded edge on the face the punch entered and a sharper corner on the face it exited, and the sharper corner is the better bearing surface against the groove wall.
Where a manufacturer marks a face or supplies a fitting note for a range, follow it rather than a general rule — practice varies between ranges and between chamfered and plain groove designs. If nothing is marked and the joint is loaded, ask before assuming.
When a ring keeps coming off
Recurring ejection is almost never solved by fitting another ring of the same size. The usual causes are a groove that has widened or shallowed through wear, a ring that was over-expanded during a previous fit, thrust load beyond what the ring size was chosen for, or a ring that was never fully seated.
Check the groove depth and width against the standard before ordering a replacement. A groove out of tolerance needs the component addressed; a heavier ring in a worn groove moves the failure rather than fixing it.
Fitting an external circlip
The sequence below is for a DIN 471 ring on a shaft. Internal rings follow the same order with the plier action reversed.
What you need
- Circlip pliers matched to the ring range
- Eye protection
- A clean rag and degreaser
- A scriber or pick for checking seating
Clean and inspect the groove
Degrease the groove and inspect it for widening, rounding of the walls or burrs. Dress any burr before fitting. A groove that no longer has square walls will not hold the ring however well the ring is fitted.
Fit the correct pliers
Select external pliers and check the tips seat squarely in both lug holes without rocking. Convertible pliers must be set to the external position, where squeezing the handles spreads the tips.
Expand only as far as needed
Open the ring just enough to clear the shaft diameter. Keep the ring square to the shaft axis as it goes on — cocking it to one side twists the ring out of plane and is difficult to recover.
Walk it down to the groove
Slide the expanded ring along the shaft to the groove, then release the pliers slowly rather than letting the ring snap shut. A controlled release keeps the ring in plane and stops it skipping past the groove.
Check seating all the way round
Confirm the ring is fully down in the groove around its whole circumference and that a uniform amount stands proud. Run a scriber round the joint between ring and groove floor to find any gap.
Test for movement
Rotate the ring gently in the groove — light resistance is right. Then check the retained component for axial play. Any measurable play means the ring, the groove or the size selection needs revisiting before the assembly goes into service.
Common questions
Which circlip pliers do I need?
External pliers for DIN 471 rings, because those have to be expanded to pass over a shaft. Internal pliers for DIN 472 rings, because those have to be compressed to pass into a bore. Convertible pliers do both, provided you set them to the right mode. Match the tip diameter to the ring's lug holes as well as the type.
Can I fit a circlip without pliers?
It is possible on small, lightly loaded rings and it is a good way to distort the ring or lose an eye. The ring has to be expanded or compressed evenly to stay in plane, which is exactly what pliers do and improvised tools do not. For anything load-bearing, use the correct pliers.
Which way round does a circlip go?
Stamped rings have a slightly rounded edge on one face and a sharper corner on the other, and the sharper corner is the better bearing face against the groove wall. Where the manufacturer marks a face or publishes a fitting note for that range, follow it — practice varies with the range and the groove design.
Why does my circlip keep popping out?
Usually a worn groove, an over-expanded ring, or thrust load beyond what the size was selected for. Measure the groove depth and width against the standard before fitting another ring. A ring that was never fully seated will also work its way out under vibration.
How tight should a circlip be in its groove?
It should sit fully down on the groove floor around its whole circumference and rotate with light resistance. A ring that spins freely is undersized or the groove is worn. A ring that cannot be moved at all is likely pinched or distorted from fitting.
Other guides
DIN 471, DIN 472 and DIN 6799 explained
Three standards cover almost every metric retaining ring you will meet. Picking the wrong one is usually a matter of measuring the wrong surface, not of choosing the wrong part.
How to measure for a circlip
The ring you pulled out is the least reliable thing to measure. Measure the feature it sits in, and the size falls out of the standard.
Circlip materials and finishes
Carbon spring steel does almost every job. The cases where it does not are predictable, and they are worth knowing before the assembly is closed up.
Need it identified?
Send the dimensions you were able to measure, along with the quantity you need. Imperial sizes, obsolete references and parts identified from a drawing or a sample are handled through the trade desk.
Send a trade enquiry